Photo: Absence Studio
The salt ponds of Hanapēpē, on Kaua‘i, are a place of legend, discovered after the Hawaiian goddess of fire and volcanoes, Pele, led a woman to the salt flats to teach her the art of making salt. The tradition continues, in both traditional and nontraditional ways. Tradition dictates that the salt cannot be bought or sold, only given away. Women like Kuuleialoha Gaisoa continue this custom and produce salt only to give away; she decides who is worth of receiving her salt based on whether they will help her protect the salt ponds. And contrary to Indigenous customs, a Hawaiian salt-farming industry has developed, with businesses marketing the product around the globe. Both the traditional salt producers and businesses, like Kona Sea Salt Farm, face challenges, such as the weather, pollution and sand erosion. They all agree, though, that the knowledge gained through centuries of traditional cultivation should guide the process into the future.
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